Collina Strada’s Hitting the Gym
Bringing gourd dumbbells and mystifying feminine strength to the runway
The blinding runway lighting cut to a dark silence without notice. The elegantly airy
Swan Lake-esque soundtrack from moments before was transformed to a heavy, rage-inducing ballad, only to be prescribed for the chic gym rat. The theatrical lighting returned and beautiful bodies began to strut forward in a rhythmic march. Here, in the basement of Rockefeller Center, all my dreams came true.
Hundreds of smushed silhouettes lined the catwalk, nearly stacked atop one another and perched on wooden benches draped in eclectic fabrics. At its end, hung a rectangular screen running looped digital displays in parallel suspension to the black ground. The running visuals were bright landscapes: Florals and frogs and grassy fields. The winding room was a sea of bright, organic color, jeweled brooches, floral layering, baggy velvet pants, satin lime, and lilac organza sleeves mirroring muscles.
Freshly photocopied flyers introduced the story, “This collection is swole with elegantly beefed up silhouettes, crafted with deadlifted deadstock fabrics and supplemented with classic Uggs made from corn leather.” Hillary Taymour’s Collina Strada has a clear penchant for accessorized shoes and continues building on her involvement in the footwear space. This Fall/Winter 24 show was produced in partnership with both Ugg and Puma, where previous seasons have seen collaborations with Virón, Melissa and, as of last season, Vans. Creating line accessories in concert with mainstream brands positions the products in a much more accessible market, you gotta make money somehow!
The show’s title, “STRONGER”, was a testament to campy imagination, supplemented by a feminine confidence. The intensity of a high-impact gym sesh was brought to the runway, blurring the idealization of the desired female form. Skin-tight garments in melting florals were worn over beefed-up biceps. Slip dresses, sweatshorts, lace boxers and flannel overlays interfaced a formal hybrid, showcasing the feminine capacity for versatility. Charcoals and baby blues walked with sunset oranges and fiery reds. The models spoke of industrial femininity and sweaty refinement. Dripping in sweat and furiously moving forward: Mature, disabled, pregnant, masculine, they strut with muscles flexed. Interspaced in the lineup were dumbbells made from gourds and pumpkins. The playful, fairy-tale style creativity is a defining angle taken by the brand.
This season’s collection, even as seen from the back row standing enclosure, beautifully continued the year’s attention to theatrics. Beginning at Margiela’s romantic, porcelain doll fantasy, and ending with Thom Browne's homage to Edgar Allan Poe, Collina found her spot in the fantasy.
